Friday, September 03, 2004

Highpoint #9 - New Hampshire's Mt. Washington - 6,288 ft elevation

Heading East out of St. Johnsbury, VT on Route 2 on a bright sunny afternoon I was looking forward to seeing my family after being on the road solo for thirteen days. But first I had to get to Mt. Washington's summit. Being that my spare time was consumed in bars in Lake Placid and reminiscing at Camp Dudley, I blew the opportunity to hike Mt. Washington and instead had to settle for the auto road. I drove through Gorham, NH after nearly hitting a black bear that ran out into Route 2 in front of the beast. Then I went South to the auto road only to get there six minutes after the road closed for the day. I tried sweet talking my way in, but the auto road was being worked on after hours and they had already sent the backhoe up the road (which meant no cars would be able to get by).

So, I headed onward on Route 2 toward my folks house in Wilton, ME. No Mt. Washington summit for me on this particular trip... After getting to Wilton and being greeted by four very excited kids, I settled in and started sharing my tales with my wife Stacy and my parents. It had been a long day though and sleep came easily when it was time for bed.

In the morning we discussed the plan for how to spend the next week in Maine... Quite a logistical challenge of understanding who was coming and going and at what times. My parents have three different properties in Maine, and my younger brother Scott and his wife Lisa have a house in Camden. Throughout the week we would have 18 people arriving (I have two brothers and a sister, and each were bringing their families for our annual family reunion).

Since we arrived a few days earlier than the others, I had originally planned to take 2-3 days and drive up to Katahdin so I could get to Maine's highest point, but given my misfortune with Mt. Washington, we shifted the plans to go back to Mt. Washington so we could make it a complete family highpoint experience, and then we'd head down to Camden and Lincolnville on the coast for the weekend to do the reunion thing.

Stacy and I packed up the rental (Chevy Blazer) with kids and enough stuff to last through the day, and then headed back West on Route 2. A couple of hours later we arrived at the Cog Railway. The plan was for me to hike up the Ammonoosuc Trail while Stacy and the kids took the train to the summit. They were going to spot me three hours so that we could arrive on the summit at about the same time. Once on top, we would all take the train on the way down.

The trail up was gradual at first, following the contour of the stream. At a point along the trail about 1.5 miles in, there was a fantastic swimming hole that marked the beginning of the steep section of the trail. Up until this point there were very few hikers on the trail but as I proceeded up from here I came across 3-4 groups. The views along the steep section were pretty spectacular because the trail kept its course along the stream (which had now turned more into a gorge due to the steep grade). After a good workout and about an hour more of climbing I reached the Lake of the Clouds hut (see picture). This hut was not what I expected to see 3.5 miles up into the trail because it seemed too inaccessible of a location to have this size of a building equipped with such amenities. I went in to check it out and there were about 20 people milling about. Some of them were staffers working in the kitchen, and the others were guests who were lounging about in outdoor wear playing board games and having quiet conversations in the great room of the hut.

As I went back outside to prep for the remaining climb to the summit, I noticed the views to the West and up to the summit were clear and quite impressive. Looking to the South I saw the rest of the presidential range in the background, with Crawford Notch in the foreground. Along the walk to the top there were several "Lakes of the Clouds" near the trail (see picture). And a short time later I was standing on the top of Mt. Washington. I had about 20 minutes before the rest of my clan showed up, during which time I perused the list of mountain fatalities (about 150) documented since the mid-1800's.

After Stacy and the kids arrived, we got our first family highpoint picture taken on the top of Washington (6,288 ft), and then went inside the museum to learn a few more things about the mountain. The ride down the mountain in the Cog Railway took about 75 minutes, and was a nice way to relax after making the hike up.

Once back in the parking lot we decided to find a nearby restaurant for dinner. The bottom of the mountain near Bretton Woods consisted of a family style "RR station" architecture restaurant - I forget the name. Or, Bretton Woods itself. We first went to Bretton Woods but opted out of the $35 entrees w/ a family of six w/ four young kids.

After a nice dinner at the more casual restaurant Ethan and Sydney asked to go outside to play while I settled the dinner tab. "No problem. Stay out of the parking lot and where we can see you", I said.

As soon as I walked out the door of the restaurant Ethan said, "Hey dad, a black bear!"

I said, "yeah, right."

"No really dad.... a black bear, look!"

I walked ten yards toward Ethan to where I could see a bit more around the corner of the restaurant and then I saw a medium-sized black bear going into the dumpster about thirty yards away for scraps. After five minutes of restaurant patron gawking and a few stupid tourist actions involving cameras and far too close "I just want to get a close-up shot" declarations, a local animal control Jeep drove up and mock-charged the bear to scare him off. It worked, and then we headed back on the two hour drive to Nana & Pappy's house to start on our Maine family reunion portion of the trip.

It was











One of many scenic swimming holes on the way up the Ammonoosuc trail Posted by Hello


Another pretty spot along the trail Posted by Hello


The AMC hut is located 3/4 of the way up the Ammonoosuc trail between Crawford Notch and Mt. Washington's summit. A little slice of heaven in an unexpected locale. Posted by Hello


Hiker beware!  Posted by Hello


Aptly named Lake of the Clouds. Elevation 5,500 ft Posted by Hello


View from the lodge up the ridge trail to the summit. Posted by Hello


View back down the ridge trail to the South, hiking up from the lodge to the summit. Lake of the Clouds is to the left of the lodge, and Crawford Notch is the peak immediately on the other side of the lodge. The Ammonoosuc trail heads down from the lodge to the West (down the slope to the right).  Posted by Hello


The first Riley family highpoint: Samantha (3), Sydney (7), me, Stacy, Allison (4), and Ethan (9) Posted by Hello


Summit view from the observation deck, the views were dodgy because of sporadic clouds Posted by Hello


Cog Railway train at the summit of Mt. Washington Posted by Hello


Winners of the cute contest, Allison and Samantha are sitting in their Cog Railway seats waiting for the trip down the mountain. Posted by Hello


Mt. Washington Resort at Bretton Woods, hack photographer chopped out the left half of the building and over-shaded the family (see if you can find them in the picture). Posted by Hello

Tuesday, August 31, 2004

Highpoint #8 - Vermont's Mt. Mansfield - 4,393ft. Elevation

On Monday morning August 2nd, I awoke and had my last meal at Camp Dudley consisting of cereal and homemade donuts (another tradition kept by the camp over the years). I said my goodbyes and gave my most sincere thanks to the camp staff for a truly wonderful couple of days and then meandered North along the scenic backroads from Westport to Essex, NY, port of the Lake Champlain ferry. Not only did the ferry serve as a more direct route from point A to B in connecting me to Vermont's state highpoint, but it also served as a memorable trip segment on its own.

I had an ambitious day planned given that I had chewed through my buffer day at Camp Dudley. I was scheduled to arrive at my parent's home in Wilton, Maine later that evening but first I had to reach the highpoints of both Vermont and New Hampshire en route. Not sure I'd make it all happen, but there's nothing left to do but try so on I went.

I pulled the beast up to the front of the line waiting for the Essex ferry to arrive (they left on the half hour during Summer hours, so I didn't have long to wait). Once parked, a blue station wagon pulled up next to me and out came a grandfather, his wife, daughter, and 17 yr old grandson. The man instantly took sight of my rig and came over to introduce himself with a bit of shameless dropped jaw enthusiasm for what I was driving. He almost didn't know where to start with his questions so after a few seconds of stuttering, shrugging and looking front to back, I told him "It's a safari trailer. I'm taking the Summer off and driving across the country. This is what I'm living in for the Summer." I felt a little guilty saying that after sleeping with a roof over my head for the past couple of days at Camp Dudley.

After telling him my story and giving him a quick tour, the ferry had arrived and it was time to get back in our cars to board the ferry. The man looked at his station wagon and family who were now all sitting in the car and urgently motioning him to get in so they wouldn't hold up the boarding process and then he looked at my passenger seat (filled with my road atlas, extra clothing, and one or two bottles of water and snack items). And then he looked at me w/ the first puppy dog expression I've ever seen sincerely worn by a grown man and exclaimed, "we're just going to Vermont for the day to pick blueberries. What you are doing is much more interesting than that. Do you have any room for me to come along?" I honestly believe that if I had cleared the seat next to me and invited him to join along he would've opened the door, hopped in next to me and waved goodbye to his family without missing a beat. Instead I hesitated momentarily to think of an appropriate response and as I did, the window of the station wagon next to me opened and out came a plea from the man's daughter, "C'mon dad, we have to go now!" He turned sheepishly and climbed into the family truckster destined for a day of multi-generational blueberry harvesting.

After an enjoyable ferry ride to Vermont heading into a day of favorable weather, I charted my course via backroad form Charlotte to Stowe, VT where the auto toll road headed up the side of the mountain to the Mansfield ridge trail. Given the limited time available to me against which I had to summit Mansfield and Mt. Washington while en route to Maine I opted for the most time-efficient ascent routes on each of the two mountains. This approach wasn't my preference as I would've been much more inclined to hike both of these mountains from bottom to top to enjoy more of what they had to offer and to give my body more exercise than it had been receiving sitting behind the wheel of the beast while making my way across America. Oh well, the decision to spend more time in Lake Placid and at Camp Dudley would cost me this much at least.

I pulled up to the toll-taker at the auto road and he happily charged me $17 for the privilege of driving up the mountain. After disconnecting the behemoth from the beast (at his urging due to the limited turn around space at the top) I started my way up. Every time I unshackle the beast it seems to repay me with some extra kick (duh, Jeff, I know it's got 2500 lbs less to carry, but I swear it's more than the extra weight that the beast is happy to shed, it's something with the added freedom of having responsibility for only itself). In any event, after a few small photo ops on the way up, I parked and started my 3 mile roundtrip and 600 ft gain to the top of Vermont along one of the more scenic and accessible hikes I had encountered yet on the trip.

As I embarked along the ridge trail I was first stopped by a small group of local naturalists (apparently employed as park ranger types by the state of Vermont). They were very friendly and made a point to request that I stay on the trail and help preserve the fragile alpine ecosystem along the summit ridge of Mt. Mansfield. "Excellent, no problem" I assured them. In a way it's a shame that simple signs along the trail won't do the job to educate the ignorant and uninclined, but I suppose it was a good thing to see the state take care in protecting its natural assets.

Along the ridge trail I passed by more families than I'd have guessed. Despite the fact that it was a pretty summer day, it was still a Monday and people had to work for a living (unlike me) didn't they? Oh well, it was nice to see so many people enjoying this experience, and judging from the comment made by the toll-taker that the three parking lots would often fill up during busy days, I suppose it wasn't all that busy given I found a spot in the most desirable parking lot (the one closest to the trailhead at the very end of the road).

In about 30 minutes I had made it to the top and was greeted by another local naturalist and his sidekick girlfriend. Both were stationed on the summit for the day to reinforce the "no impact" message and to be generally available for information about the mountain, its subclimate, and the surrounding area. Ranger Rick asked if I was a thru-hiker on the Long Trail which I took partly as an observation that I was hiking alone with real equipment instead of tennis sneakers and a polo shirt, and partly as an observation that despite my shower that morning, the cumulating days on the road were starting to have an effect on my overall trail-worn (sun-exposed and unshaven) appearance. Overall a huge compliment :)

For those of you that don't know, the Long Trail is a 274 mile North to South (or South to North) trail that runs through the entire state of Vermont. It is a beautiful trail that state residents (and the broader thru-hiker community) hold in high esteem as a very desirable journey. It is also a quite modest effort in comparison to its big brother 2155 mile Appalachian Trail that spans from Georgia to Maine.

"No, its something I might like to do someday, but that is not the purpose of my journey on this particular trip." at which point I gave him a brief description of my trip.

"Ah, a Highpointer." he stated.

"Yep. I guess if you had to boil it down to a single word." I thought with a smile of resignation. We all have our little boxes to store concepts in to keep them nice and neat. "Have hiked the Long Trail?" I asked him.

"Yes, it was great." he said. I suppose we were even now that we'd had a chance to oversimplify each other's life-time memories. We got past it quickly.

"Wow, these are amazing beatles!" I said to him as I looked down at two completely different colored metallic beatles sitting on different parts of my left arm. One of them was circular in shape and gold colored with hints of orange on the side. The other, an iridescent green with blue shell, had a more rectangular shape to it.

He told me that there were millions of these types of beatles at the summit and that he didn't know anywhere else in Vermont that had anything like this. He said there were plenty of different colors, sizes, and shapes of these beatles and that it was one of the unique features of Mt. Mansfield that made it so interesting. I wholeheartedly agreed, it was really wild.

Well, I still had a long day ahead so I bid farewell and turned tail to head back down to the waiting beast in the parking lot. About halfway, a fellow hiker and his wife came back onto the main trail from a side trail labeled "The Subway". They looked at me and said they thought that side trail was much more appropriate for someone "like me" whatever that meant. I suppose my trail-worn look was not lost on them either... I was sufficiently baited and after asking them how much time they thought it would take and deciding I had 20 minutes to invest in another experience on the mountain I ventured off the main ridge trail and onto the Subway.

I wasn't disappointed. The trail quickly descended off the side of the mountain over some steep boulders and down into a rock crevasse that had been "laddered" by a boy scout seeking his Eagle badge back in 1989. I then proceeded through the crevasse to some keyhole views and then back up to the ridge (after dropping one of my water bottles twenty feet and retrieving it). I didn't explore the entire Subway (it seemed to do a figure eight instead of a simple loop), but it was a nice diversion if you are ever there and decide you have an extra 20-30 minutes to spend.

I soon arrived back at the beast, headed down the mountain and saddled back up with the behemoth. I then drove Eastward on Route 2 through the rest of Vermont and into the state of New Hampshire after a quick gas and bio break in St. Johnsbury where I called my dad and updated him on my ETA later that evening (I thought 11pm once up and down the auto road at Mt. Washington). "Be careful you don't miss the closing time at the auto road Jeff." he said.

"I should be ok, don't you think? I'll probably get there around 6pm." I replied.

"You may want to call." he said.

He knew me well enough to know I wouldn't. I knew him well enough to know that I probably should have.

"See you later tonight." I said.

"Ok, good luck." he said. We hung up...

On to New Hampshire...







Waiting for the ferry in Essex, NY Posted by Hello


Heading East across Lake Champlain on the Essex ferry. A long day ahead is planned. Posted by Hello


Champlain boaters moored in Charlotte, VT Posted by Hello


"WoooHOOO VERMONT!!!" - pulling into Charlotte, VT after crossing Lake Champlain Posted by Hello


Hmmm... Tempting. Posted by Hello


A view to the West from the ridge trail on Mount Mansfield. Lake Champlain is out there, but much easier to see in person than in this picture. Posted by Hello


View from the ridge trail back to the parking lot at the top of the auto toll road. Hiking along this path is a great family hike that provides continuous views in all directions.  Posted by Hello


Planks help prevent trail impact to a marshy section along the ridge trail to Mansfield's summit. Mount Mansfield' summit is home to the only alpine subclimate in the state of Vermont and the area's naturists guard the natural beauty of the area with zeal. Posted by Hello


Fellow hikers rest to enjoy the views at the summit of Vermont's highest point. Posted by Hello


#8 - Mount Mansfield in Vermont! Made it... Posted by Hello


At the recommendation of a fellow hiker, "The Subway looks like it would be good for you... we didn't make it all the way" I decided I couldn't pass up a comment like that. Looking down, now I knew why they called this the Subway.Posted by Hello


Take the Subway side trail if you want a 20 minute excursion that brings a couple of scrambles over boulders just off the western ridge of the summit trail Posted by Hello


A keyhole view along the Subway side trail on the summit path to Mount Mansfield. Posted by Hello

Monday, August 30, 2004

Reconnecting with my boyhood camp experience...

After a filling breakfast in Lake Placid and a stop at the water spring to fill up my three Nalgene water bottles, I made the 45 minute drive Southeast to Westport, New York on the shores of Lake Champlain. You've probably heard of Lake Champlain before, but if you aren't intimately familiar with it, the lake is a large North to South spanning lake the bisects New York and Vermont's border line with each other. It is strategically placed between the St. Lawrence and Hudson Rivers so it has a long history of military, economic, and more recently recreational significance over the past four hundred years.

Westport, NY is home to Camp Dudley, a boy's camp where I spent five Summers as a youth enjoying the outdoors, playing sports, hiking, canoeing, and participating in many other camp activities. Whenever I go down "memory lane" I've learned to be cautious in setting my expectations. Even thumbing through pages of an old yearbook, or visiting a town that was once home many years ago can trigger a range of emotions from happiness of recalling golden moments to strong sorrow that time is not able to be turned back to relive or reconnect with people once close and points in time that now live forever as memories.

I hadn't been back to Dudley since 1982, so I was anticipating a nostalgic afternoon of reminiscing while walking around campus. I was expecting much more of a reflective and personal experience that triggered memories deep within without much reconnection to the actual camp experience that was present and going on around me in this 120th season of Dudley's impressive program history. I guess I just assumed that my camping experience from long ago could not be replaced 22 Summers later with an entirely different roster of staff and campers than I once knew.

Well, my very first encounter once I stepped under the gates of Dudley's main entrance started to challenge my low expectations. The next two days of my life would be spent as an honorary staff member, as what John Storey (Development Director for the camp) described to me as the "prodigal son" experience; indeed it was. Shortly after parking my rig in the staff lot across from Dudley's entrance I walked onto camp property and saw a woman in her mid-thirties with a bright expression on her face and an eager stride heading my way. "Hello, I don't recognize you, are you here for a visit?" she asked.

"Uh, yeah. This is the first time I've been back in 21 years. I was a camper here from 1978-1982. I'm taking the Summer off from work and driving across the country. I just came through to see the camp." I said.

She introduced herself to me as Fran Bisselle, wife of the current camp director, Andy Bisselle. "You must've been here as a camper at the same time as Andy." She said. As it turns out he was one year ahead of me at camp. Fran made a point to personally escort me to the camp administrative offices to meet Andy and that promptly turned into an arm in arm photo of Andy and me within five minutes of my arrival. Andy and I had a five minute chat about who I still knew that was still active and present on camp grounds. There turned out to be a few staffers whose names I recognized, but I really didn't know them too well as campers except for one, "Davo". Mark Davenport is a few years old than me and his larger than life persona was as true back in 1980 as it was when he stepped into the administrative offices to offer me a big "welcome back" hug. I knew right away by looking at the positive expression on Davo's face that my decision to come back for a visit was a really good one. Not only was I welcome to be here as an unexpected visitor, but the magic that I once knew as a camper was certainly still here.

I don't quite now how to describe all of Davo's camp jobs as he is active in many roles across the camp, but I guess it can be summed up as saying he seemed to be Camp Dudley's president while Andy is its CEO. I certainly didn't want to usurp too much time from Andy and Davo, they have a huge responsibility to 400 boys for sixty days each Summer and we were right in the thick of it. But their hospitality and generosity were clear from the start, and Dave said "Well, you know the program Jeff. Make yourself at home. Feel free to stay at Cutler Point or maybe there's room in the staff housing in McLean. You can eat with the staff in the staff dining hall. Are you going to stay for the show tonight and the hymn sing tomorrow?"

"Wow", I thought. Probably I said it outloud. I hadn't expected this much of a welcome, and now I found myself remembering back to Sunday night hymn sings where the entire camp gathers on the floor of Witherbee hall sitting amongst three weather-worn grand pianos and spend 90 minutes singing songs from the Dudley hymnal that seem to have been hand picked for their unique ability to combine Christian spirituality with the untempered macho adolescence of 10-14 yr old boys. I started remembering specific songs individually, and the traditional finale of songs that end with "Now the day is over" and the entire camp humming the verses while the lights are faded to black once the words have all been sung.

"Maybe I will" I finally answered to Davo's question. "I'd really like to be here for that."

"You shouldn't miss it." he said. "I'm going to have to run, but there's someone here you ought to meet. He's from the Seattle area too, and I think you guys have a lot in common. He's also on sabbatical and he is helping out with our hike hut staff this summer."

Bill Harper is an Episcopalian minister from Grace Church in Bainbridge Island. He took a sabbatical this Summer in part to enroll in a Wilderness First Responder program at the National Outdoor Leadership Scool. The other part of Bill's plan was to come back to Camp Dudley where he has been a staffer for fourteen years to contribute to the hiking program at Camp Dudley while simultaneously starting to explore curriculum development for outdoor and challenge programs for troubled youths. I didn't get a picture of Bill to share on the site, but he is a medium height, late thirties/early forties, physically fit guy with almost shoulder length flowing light colored hair. He looks like a soccer player to me though I never confirmed that with him... Bill did you play?

I instantly gravitated to Bill partly because we were both from the Seattle area, partly because we were both on sabbatical, and partly because I was fascinated with his participation in the wilderness program at NOLS. I hadn't planned to spend an extra day at Dudley, but now I was rethinking my plans. I had an extra buffer day, and I very quickly decided to spend it here at Dudley. I found an extra room in the McLean lodge and brought a backpack full of the basic necessities for a couple of days. Staying in McLean meant I'd also get a warm shower both mornings I was there which was an added bonus. Once settled in, I started embarking around the campus to take in the many changes that have taken place over the past twenty years at Camp Dudley.

I had been told of the many changes by everyone I had seen so far, Andy and Fran, Davo, and even Bill. Regardless of their perspectives, mine was quite different. Sure, there were new buildings that housed the administration, and both Witherbee and Beckman halls (the two largest buildings at camp) had received major facelifts through renovation projects. Also the locations of cabins the four divisions (cub, plebe, junior, and senior) were housed in was rearranged. Some changes in the program structure had been made (five day hiking trips had been discontinued but fine arts had been added as an individual major). And some nice features had been added to the camp (such as the ropes challenge course out by Cutler Point). But these changes were largely mechanical in nature and I was much more interested in the intangible changes of what day to day life at camp was like now, how much I still felt the Dudley spirit, and in what traditions had changed and stayed the same over the years. Along these lines, my experience was that there was very little change over twenty years. I guess that is why I felt that my trip to Dudley was a reconnection instead of a reminiscence.

Camp Dudley has a motto: "The other fellow first". This motto is taken to heart by the leaders and campers at Dudley, and each camper can be recognized at the end of the season with a divisional award that demonstrates their commitment to the values and positive behavior embodied in the motto and spirit of the camp. The spirit of Dudley is one of positive attitude and teamwork marked by an undercurrent of a quirky sense of humor and fun. There is a vocabulary that hasn't changed a bit in over twenty years. A "stain" is a person that acts like a pain in the neck. Saying "Yaho" while touching your fingertips together over your head and moving both hands up and down is a sign of appreciation - a substitute for the overused term "awesome". And when something looks like it is going to result in a bad outcome, there is "no safety there". These and many other Dudley sayings contribute to the spirit and culture of the camp which has remained consistent over time. While I've seen elements of Dudley's culture in other organizations, the overall package is something that is unique to this little corner of the world called Camp Dudley.

I connected with many other people at Camp Dudley including:

- John Storey, Development Director for the camp, who shared many stories of other alumni and their experiences reconnecting with the camp over the years. I enjoyed meeting John whose passion for Dudley over the years was something I could easily relate to. Perhaps there are ways I can continue to be active in this community on an ongoing basis.

- A 14 yr old Aide (Dudley's term for a couseler-in-training) from Baltimore that had recently returned from the Adirondack woods for his "Aide experience" a week long adventure in the backwoods that test and challenge each participant's wilderness skills.

- Casey from the hike hut staff who gave me a personal tour of the new ropes challenge course at the camp. Casey spends the rest of his year in Hawaii managing challenge course outings there.

- The Dudley Doings (weekly camp newsletter that is circulated to campers during the summer) and Last Whistle (camp yearbook) staff and a tour of their production facilities in the second floor of the 90 yr old Avery Boathouse.

- An evening walk around campus with Bill Harper during "Vespers". Vespers are evening discussions within each cabin led by each cabin's leader that explore Christian values and beliefs based on practical experiences and real-life stories.

- Willie Schmidt, former camp director during my time as a camper. Willie's son Don was one of my campers when I was an Aide in 1982. I really enjoyed seeing Willie because he had a leadership style all his own. He could be tough as nails when needed, but he always did so w/ a lot of love and a zany sense of humor. I still remember his evening rounds each night when he called out to each cabin "Goodnight Adirondack! Goodnight Iroquois! Goodnight St. Lawrence!" and so on... Each night during the camp season, every cabin (there are close to forty cabins) would get this good night greeting from Willie. This is a tradition I saw repeated during my evening walk around campus with Bill when we saw Andy making the same rounds to say goodnight to each cabin.

My visit concluded with the Sunday evening hymn sing which was as magic as I had remembered. I sat (with the other staff and alumni) in the back (seated area) of Witherbee while all the Leaders and campers sat back to back on the floor. At one point during the hymn sing Andy pauses between songs to recognize the alumni present in the room. Instead of clapping to recognize the alumni who proudly stood and recited their camper numbers* as I did when I was a camper twenty years ago, I was now one of those standing in the back of the room and when it was my turn I proudly stated my number #12305. Fortunately I only got a small round of applause from the crowd as the louder cheers are saved for the older alumni with lower camper numbers. The lowest number of the night? #8865, yikes.... it won't be too long before I am the one they are celebrating the most.

Hymn sign was brought to a close in the same four song medley that I had recalled from my youth: Amazing Grace, Climb Every Mountain, The Dudley Hymn, and Now the day is over. While these songs eventually built themselves into a comfort ritual when I was a camper, they know each held much more significant meaning for me: Amazing Grace because it had been played at the funeral of my friend's 7 year old son who was tragically killed in late June this year when he was ran over while riding his bike on the street in front of his house. Climb Every Mountain because the song's lyrics were quite appropriate for the personal odyssey in which I presently found myself taking across the country. The Dudley Hymn because of how it helped to reinforce the connection I had made once as a boy and now again as a man with Camp Dudley. And Now the day is over, for its symbolic value in separating today from tomorrow and its ability to provide closure to the long journey of "today".

I walked quietly back to my room in McLean wanting to interact with no one in particular but to reflect on my reconnection with Dudley and soak in the feelings stirred up by the hymn sing. As my head hit the pillow I recalled one more Sunday night tradition that I hadn't remembered until just that point in time. It was as if the preconditioned portion of my brain that held all of my memories was triggered into action by the absence of music I now did not hear coming through the summer air toward my sleeping porch. Twenty years ago once all campers returned to their cabins and were lying in bed, four musicians on the camp staff would sit on the porch of Witherbee and play 3-4 songs as a brass quartet. Maybe, I thought, the brass quartet was something they had when I was a camper because of the staff's unique abilities during those years I was a camper. That must be it. Maybe it wasn't a long-standing tradition after all but just something that worked out to happen for the few years I was at camp. That had to be it. Oh well... Not everything can stay exactly the same as I remembered it.

As my eyes became heavier a few minutes later the first notes from a French Horn, Trumpet, Trombone, and Tuba floated across the campus weightlessly through each cabin including my sleeping porch in the staff housing at McLean. I was pretty sure my mind wasn't playing tricks on me, but even if it was the smile that came across my face lasted well beyond the point in time that I fell asleep and I slept better than I had in a long long time.

*Camp numbers at Dudley are a tradition that started with camper #1 George Peck in 1885 to present day where there are now over 19,000 camper numbers issued)





Welcome to Camp Dudley, Westport, NY - the oldest boys camp in continuous operation in America, founded in 1885. My visit from July 31st to Aug 2nd coincided with Dudley's 120th season. Left to Right: Witherbee Hall (drama and music hall) where two weekly shows are held as well as Sunday night hymn sings, the flagpole (where the evening cannon blast, revelie, and the dinner bell resides), the camp store and hike hut (small building in the middle), and the Beckman Dining Hall (which feeds approx. 500 hungry mouths each day during Summer camp season). Viewed from the 1st base line on cub diamond. Posted by Hello


Swim Point where the water of Lake Champlain is COLD and refreshing. Several times a day campers and leaders come here for free swim, team and individual swimming and diving events, and the long standing tradition of the Duke dip (swimming without trunks as nature intended).  Posted by Hello


A group of Dudley campers and camp leaders "bring it in" to a tight circle for a group cheer on the Junior diamond. In the background: the Junior "Institute" (bathroom), Lake Champlain, and Iroquois Lodge (where I spent my Summer as an 11 yr old Plebe in 1979). Posted by Hello


Swim Point and Suter Lodge as viewed from the bluff near the rifle range. Each year, eight lucky 11 yr olds get to spend their Summer living in this cabin on the shore of Lake Champlain.  Posted by Hello


Mark "Davo" Davenport, Willie Schmidt, and me at Sunday Chapel service. Davo was a Leader when I was at camp from 1978-1982 and Willie was the camp Director. Posted by Hello


Sunday night hymn sing in Witherbee Hall at Camp Dudley Posted by Hello

Tuesday, August 24, 2004

Highpoint #7 - New York's Mt. Marcy - 5,344ft elev

As I crossed back into the good ol' US of A, I seriously irked the customs official by crossing the yellow line too soon, but got away with a verbal handslap instead of a strip search and involuntary trailer disassembly.

In a few minutes I was in upstate NY driving through Canton and past St. Lawrence University, one of the colleges I visited while in high school. I remember thinking it seemed like a cool school but was too damn remote and cold in the winter time.

Soon I entered into the Adirondack mountains of New York where I spent many Summers at Camp Dudley in Westport, NY as an adolescent. In my view, there are a handful of places on this Earth that each person has in their lifetime that become their "home turf". A place qualifies as home turf if the person has a familiarity with that place that often only comes with a certain frequency of visits whereby the person can truly fit in as a local and know their way around. Another thing that comes with being on home turf is a comfort level and a feeling of "ahh, I am no longer on the road, I have now arrived at a place where I feel at home." For me, coming into the Adirondacks gave me a feeling of being on home turf.


In a little while once past Saranac Lake I came into Lake Placid (home of the 1980 winter Olympics and the miracle on ice). Driving down the main drag in Lake Placid and past the ski jumps just outside of town brought back positive childhood memories.


It was starting to get toward dinner time, and I wanted to setup camp before heading into town so I ventured 7 miles SE of town to the Mt. Marcy trailhead at the Adirondack Loj (yes it is spelled that way). I went in to the campsite office and they were booked up and plenty unfriendly in telling me that I couldn’t camp in the parking lot and had to head back at least 2-3 miles on the dirt road if I wanted to camp along the road. Hmmm. Bummer. So I went to the area they described and it sucked. Side of a dirt road in the woods. Well, onto plan b. I’ll head into town with my trailer so that if I find a stealth site somewhere in town I can at least be convenient to in-town locations this evening and I’ll just commute to the trailhead in the morning.

On my way back to Placid I saw a mobile trailer park that also advertised as an RV park. This would normally fall well below my radar because I had been looking primarily for wilderness campsite locations to stay on my trip, but I was desparate and didn’t want to waste any more time getting into town for dinner and the local bar scene so I turned in to check it out. The office was closed for the day (and it appeared perhaps even out of business it looked so desolate). I drove past the office and went into the mobile home park and within ten seconds decided to head out in search of another alternative (the homes were all clearly permanent and I didn’t see any signs of RVs or tent sites). Once returning on the outbound loop, I looked down across the road into a hidden and distinctly separate section of the property and bingo, there were three trailers and one tent with about twenty open sites. No wonder it was near empty…. No one would ever be able to find it on their own, and the sites were very poorly presented from a drive-by perspective. I went down to that area (after navigating a maze of roads to get there). And I saw a few people gawk at me and my rig as I pulled in to one of the empty sites. Gawk all you want… in a few minutes you’ll be offering me a beer in exchange for a tour (I ended up being right, they did, but after their tour I had other plans to get into Placid for the evening)… After disconnecting the behemoth from the beast and setting up camp I headed into town for dinner.


I parked the beast at a public lot on the main drag and started the “Which restaurant is best for my mood right now?” walk down the street. I saw it pretty quickly. A casual alpine style log façade with outdoor seating and quite a few people already seated having dinner. “Outside or in?” the hostess asked me. “outside please”. They sat me down and promptly forgot about me for the next 10 minutes. It’s alright I thought, I was ready for a break from a long day’s drive. There was a couple seated next to me with their dog. They were a few minutes ahead of me (actually we sat at about the same time, but they didn’t get forgotten by the waitstaff as I did). Not sure how the smalltalk started, but we started chatting and I discovered they were from Philadelphia and taking a vacation to Bar Harbor and now Lake Placid before heading back to their small law firm practice in a few days. Bob and Kathy Levant. Their dog: Ella, a beautiful black lab / great dane mix. Coincidentally they were also hiking Mt. Marcy the next day and so we talked a bit more. Dinner was nothing special, but it was nice connecting w/ Bob and Kathy and we agreed we’d probably see each other on the trail tomorrow and left it at that.


After dinner I went next door to the ZigZag Pub. It looked like people were having fun in there and there was a pool table. And once I walked in I discovered they served my beverage of choice, the vodka red bull. Ok, I was definitely going to be happy here for a while.

Here I played pool and saw another man (probably ten years older than me) clearly from out of town and out for the evening. He looked like someone I could play pool with or just trade stories with, so I introduced myself. His name was Terry and he was from somewhere in Idaho. His 13 yr old son was in town for the week at hockey camp and so he was staying in town during the camp sight seeing (at the local bar at this particular point in time). We hit it off pretty well and Terry and I became drinking buddies for that night and the following night. We hustled the locals out of their quarters playing pool and enjoyed each others company and stories about life and day-time experiences in Placid (and my trip as well).

Later that night there was a 1970’s theme after-hours party at the bar across the street and many of Terry’s son’s hockey camp coaches were present fully garbed in leisure suits, frilled shirts, and mirror sunglasses. Terry was quite tempted to give them a hard-time (quite sarcastically), but didn’t. After a while longer there I headed back to the campsite knowing I had a long day of hiking in the morning. I got back and realized before my head hit the pillow that it was almost 3:30am! Yikes, that wasn’t really what I had in mind the night before a 15 mile hike, but I’ll wake up when I do and go from there.

Eyes crusted shut but now awake I opened them to squint at my watch, 7:30am. Gotta pee, but I’d rather sleep. Back to sleep. Eyes open 9:30am, ahh that’s better, but now I really gotta pee. Time to get up. I stumbled out of the tent (this can be dangerous with the ladder and all), and cursed myself for staying up that late and having so many VRBs. Hmmm, maybe I’ll stay another night in Placid and hike Marcy tomorrow instead of today… Nah… I was the one to make the decision to stay out, so I will pay for it by hiking w/ less sleep and a mild hangover. After showering and getting my gear together I headed out for the Loj to the trailhead. I got to the trailhead and the stormtroopers that wouldn’t let me camp in the parking lot last night now wanted me to pay $9 for the privilege of parking in the trailhead parking lot for the day… I can pay less for an overpopulated city parking space in most US cities…. Jerks. Fine. Here’s your money. I hope at least it will be used to further the trail system instead of sustain the poor service and attitudes I saw yesterday while interacting with your staff.

I hit the trail after registering in the trailhead book and saw a pile of rocks with a sign nearby: “Please take a rock to the top. Our park guides will use these rocks to help prevent erosion…” Maybe on another day w/ more sleep and maybe on a mountain where I don’t have to pay $9 to park. I hit the trail, rockless.

The first segment of the hike was great. I knew I had a long day on the trail so I just wanted to get in the rhythm of a good pace and get my feet accustomed to the trail. I noticed a few things right away about Marcy and the Adirondacks vs. hiking in the Cascades and the state of Washington. First, Marcy’s trail (at least the initial section) was much more “manicured” than trails I’ve seen in the Cascades. Large stones have been placed at even intervals for many sections to be used as stepping stones. There are far more wooden bridges and stairs built into the Marcy trail then I am accustomed to seeing in the Cascades. And secondly, the Adirondacks seem to have absorbed so much rainwater that everything you touch is damp. This permanent dampness seems in stark contrast to the Cascades which is more diverse in its range of subclimates from the desert like conditions of the Eastern mountains, to the densely packed Doug Firs, Western Red Cedars, and Hemlocks that make up the core of the Cascades to the Glacial and volcanic peaks of Rainier, Adams, Baker, and St. Helens.

2.1 miles into the hike I was at Marcy Dam. I stopped for a few minutes and talked to an older dude who looked like he spent a lot of time in the Adirondack wilderness and a woman a few years older than me. Her husband and son were hiking Tabletop mountain, and she was sitting at the dam reading a book. Apparently she had torn an ACL within the past year on a hike and was quite happy to be situated here at the dam while they went off and did the heavy hiking. The older dude was very knowledgeable about these mountains and the area and very friendly too. He gave me a recommendation to checkout the Oak Lake Lodge before heading out of the area claiming it had the best views in the Adirondacks. That recommendation will need to wait, but I’ve got it filed away for future reference.

Onward… had to make time because of my late start in the day. I passed over the dam and stayed on the blue trail toward the Marcy summit. Shortly past the dam I crossed over the river and decided to take a picture. Right around then a family (father plus two or three teenagers) happened by and the father offered to take my picture in front of the river. Ok, thanks. We talked briefly and his son told me they were going to the top today. Well, maybe they would and maybe they wouldn’t but we’ll come back to that later. I appreciated the offer to take my picture and moved along up the trail shortly after.

At Indian Falls (about two thirds of the distance to the summit) I took a break on a rock face with nice views to the West. A few minutes later a father and son came out onto the rock and sat nearby. They told me they were unsuccessful in finding the trail to Tabletop mountain and I realized I was now talking with the husband of the women I had met earlier at Marcy dam. After making this connection with them, I packed up and moved onward up the trail.

About 20 minutes later I saw a couple and a dog hiking down the trail. It was Bob and Kathy and their dog Ella. They were coming down from the top and had obviously gotten an earlier start on the day than me... We stopped and chatted for 10-15 minutes with a decision to meet again for dinner later that night at the same restaurant.

At 0.6 miles from the top, there is a final trail junction point, and the views to the summit really start to open up because of the switch to subalpine climates that comes with the harsher weather and thinner air. As I proceeded through this junction point I stopped a short distance ahead around a blind corner to take some pictures. Behind me I heard a couple of early 20's men looking up at the summit and one exclaimed to the other, "F***! It's still such a long way away." Priceless, I thought and chuckled. As they rounded the corner and passed by me I said, "It's not that far, you'll be on top before you know it." They smiled sheepishly and continued on.

The climb up the last half mile is pretty strenuous particularly after hiking 7 miles, but the views were quite pretty and the site of people on top looking around and relaxing was good motivation. A short while later I was with them. After a 20-30 minute break on top and several pictures later I decided I better head back down if I wanted time for a shower before dinner.

As I headed down I saw three teenagers scrambling upward toward the summit. It was the family I had seen by Marcy dam at the river. They in fact WERE going to make it to the top. I was impressed. About a quarter mile behind them I saw three people and as I passed by the teens, they turned to the three people and yelled, "C'mon grandpa, you can make it! We're almost there."

Wow.... I kept moving down the rock face to see the parents and grandfather. Once we came together on the path I complimented the parents on their children's impressive attitudes and that is when they introduced me to the kid's grandfather Bob Capen. Bob is 79 years young and was hiking the trail in tennis shoes because in his words, "You ought to hike in whatever is comfortable." Seeing Bob move along the trail and make it up the very steep open rock faces toward the summit was pretty inspiring to me. We stopped and chatted for a while to share stories and then I asked to have my picture taken with him which he happily granted. I have never known Bob before, and quite likely will never see him again but during our short ten minutes together I decided there was a part of Bob that would always be a role model for me, knowing no limits to his abilities and going for the summit.

It was a long hike out. At the river by Marcy dam I rested for a foot soak in the cold water of the stream. It was great and helped me close out the last 2.1 miles from Marcy dam back to the trailhead parking lot. I then headed back to the campsite, showered and headed back into Lake Placid to meet Bob and Kathy for dinner. At dinner and amongst many other conversation topics, we talked about Bar Harbor (their previous vacation spot), running a small business (something all three of us had a common interest in), and my adventure.

"How did my wife feel about all this?" I was asked...
"Well, right now she is in the Caribbean on a Windjammer sailing cruise." was my answer.
"Oh."

That could've ended the conversation, but then I added, "And... she is joining me for most of the trip back West so it will be just the two of us while our kids stay with her parents in Connecticut."
"Well if you guys come by the Philadelphia area, you should drop in for dinner and even spend a night at our house." Bob offered.

Wow, I thought. That was a really nice offer. I told Bob we'd seriously consider it and if it fit in with our schedule we'd try to make it happen.

After dinner, we bid farewell after exchanging contact info and I headed back over to my new stomping grounds, the Zig Zag Pub. Terry was there and we instantly jumped back into the stride we were keeping on the billiards table while listening to some guy play some great guitar music. There were a variety of interesting groups of people in the bar this particular evening...

- One was a hostile African native with a thick accent and plenty too much to drink who ended up challenging us in eight ball and lost repeatedly.
- Another was a heavy set midwesterner with a great personality and sense of humor who also played pool enjoyed the music as much as we did.
- Yet another was a local kindergarten teacher that shared a great deal of her pride of the area and its lore with us. In partiucular she directed me to a roadside fresh water spring that I should checkout and since it was right on my way out, I took her advice and partook of the local water supply. It was great water indeed, so I filled up several liter bottles on my way out of town for my trip going forward.

My second and last night in Lake Placid left me with an even stronger love for the area and the Adirondacks than I had remembered as a kid, and a desire to return soon. Perhaps to climb more of the 4k'ers, or to soak-in more of the local culture. Or perhaps both...






Selecting country roads as my main route sometimes has drawbacks... This farmer decided to look back at just the right time to say "cheese". Posted by Hello


Patriotic graffiti viewed en route to Lake Placid from Ogdensburg, NY Posted by Hello


Lake Placid ski jumps viewed from Adirondack Loj road Posted by Hello


View of Mt. Colden (4,714ft and #11 highest mountain in the Adirondacks) from Marcy Dam Posted by Hello


Hikers stop for a rest at Marcy Dam Posted by Hello


Bears? We ain't afraid of no bears... A food rigging system available to campers at Marcy Dam Posted by Hello


A nice stream .3 miles past Marcy Dam where I stopped for a quick photo op Posted by Hello


The final trail junction before the Mt. Marcy summit approach Posted by Hello


From here it's only a little further to the top... Posted by Hello


7.4 miles and 3200 feet in gain later, I made the summit. State highpoint #7 (and the most challenging since Rainier) is in the bag. Posted by Hello


A slightly foggy view from the summit of Mt. Marcy Posted by Hello


Bob Capen (79 years young) and me on the final summit approach to Mt. Marcy Posted by Hello


A fresh water spring in Lake Placid, NY that I was directed to by Lake Placid resident, Erin Perkins. The water was as cold and fresh as any I've tasted.  Posted by Hello

A family visit in Canada

On the morning of July 28th I broke camp at Michigamme campground, bid farewell to my new friends from Michigan's upper peninsula and drove an hour or two to Sault Ste Marie, the border city between Michigan and Canada.

I crossed into Canadian roadspace with no incident despite the military appearance of my rig and the highly suspect characteristics of my own physical appearance. In some cases, I suspect the more suspicious one looks as they cross an international border, the higher the chances are that they will cross without incident so that the border patrol personnel don't have to mess with a lengthy search/interrogation process.


My plan was to get through Canada to the Adirondack mountains of New York state in two days of driving with an overnight break somewhere halfway through. I took Route 17, which was really the only option, to see how far I could get on the first day of driving. My knee started to bother me from the many hours in the beast so I got a pillow out of the trailer to help support my leg and take some of the pressure off of the muscles surrounding it. After another hour my knee kept bothering me so I pulled over at a reststop, got out and walked around for a while.

At the rest area I saw a couple in their early 40's having a picnic at the rest area. It was hard not to stare at this pair because it was as if they were plopped down at this rest area straight out of a 1970's time warp. They were driving some type of a classic 1970's muscle car (some type of stealth muscle sedan like a Nova or a Chevelle - not being a connosieur of 70's automobiles I am not sure which and I wasn't really that close). Both the man and woman had big hair, tight tight shorts worn high on the hips, and tacky tank tops on. They appeared to be deeply engrossed in their picnic and each other's company so I decided not to engage in conversation despite my morbid curiosity of what a dialog with this endangered species would be like. Is it just me, or are there a disproportionately high percentage of 1970's era left behinds in Canada?

I got back in after exercising and stretching my knee and resumed the long drive to the East. At this point I had a route decision to make. I could either proceed along a Northern path that seemed to get me to upstate New York in the most direct fashion, or I could venture in a more Southerly direction through Port Carling. Despite the additional hour or two of driving, I'd be able to stop at my Uncle and Aunt's family summer cottage for the night. This cottage (named Lowood) has been in my mother's family for more generations than I am aware of and several summertime visits during my childhood created longlasting memories of canoeing, sailing, rowboating, fishing, swimming, and fun times with our cousins and my grandparents. By stopping I could catch up with my Uncle and Aunt while simultaneously taking a trip down memory lane. I didn't know whether they were even there so I called my mom to get the phone number. Upon calling, my Uncle Kirt answered the phone.

"Hey Kirt it's Jeff Riley, guess where I am?"
"I don't know, on the top of some mountain?" - not a bad guess actually
"No, I'm in Sudbury, Ontario on my way to New York. Any chance I can swing by for a visit and a place to sleep tonight?"

He was delighted to have me drop in for the night. I got into Lowood at 9pm after calling one more time to navigate the roads to the cottage. It had been 15 years since my last visit to Lowood and Kirt and Nancy had engaged in quite a bit of work to update and improve the cottage. After catching up with Kirt on worklife, family news, and summer travels I went to bed happy to have a bedroom to sleep in and looking forward to seeing the property in the morning light. The next morning after joining Kirt and Nancy for breakfast, I went for a swim at the boathouse and would've been quite content to stay longer into the day, but Kirt reminded me of the time and how much further I had to go to get to Lake Placid so after showing them some pictures of my trip and the giving them a tour of the behemoth trailer I hit the road South toward Route 471 which led to Ogdensburg, New York.

Thanks Kirt and Nancy for a great (but short) visit to Lowood. The cottage looks great and I had fun connecting with both of you.

Onto my next adventure, New York state's highest point - Mt. Marcy near Lake Placid in the Adirondack mountains.


Driving over the bridge at Sault Ste. Marie to cross the border into Canada Posted by Hello


Visiting my Uncle and Aunt (Kirt and Nancy Gardner) in Port Carling, Ontario Posted by Hello


Walking down the steps from the driveway to "Lowood" a cottage that has been in my mom's family for many generations on Lake Rosseau in Port Carling, Ontario. Posted by Hello


View to Lake Rosseau from Lowood's porch dining room Posted by Hello


"the cove" between the boathouse and the cottage Posted by Hello


path through the woods from boathouse to the cottage Posted by Hello


Boathouse at Lowood where we used to swim and go fishing as kids Posted by Hello


Public boat dock at Port Carling, Ontario where locals can come to load up on supplies or travel to and from town without getting into their cars  Posted by Hello


View of one of the arms of Lake Rosseau from Port Carling, Ontario  Posted by Hello

Thursday, August 12, 2004

Highpoint #6 - Mt. Arvon, Michigan

It was early in the day and I had already bagged the state of Wisconsin highpoint (Timm's Hill). It was now time to set sails and head North to Michigan's upper peninsula, home of Mt. Arvon - at 1979 feet, Michigan's highest point.

The drive was fantastic. The tunes (including one of my new African Jazz CDs given to me especially for the trip by Martin from Adventure Trailers) were great, the weather could not be better, and the beast and I were one with the road. After a short stop at the Sadinaw, MI post office to send a couple of post cards I was on my way to the shore town of L'anse on Lake Superior. Once there I headed East to Skanee and then South along a labyrinth of dirt roads to the end of the road to where I'd set foot into the woods of the upper peninsula to find the high point.

You might think it would be easy to find this highpoint, after all it's only one mile from the end of the dirt road, and it is a mountain (just climb up until you get there, right?). Wrong. The guidebook I am using had significantly different mileages to the end of the road parking area after the last major turn-off from what I actually drove, so I was pretty convinced that I was now in a different area than my guidebook suggested. Also, there were five or six different ways I could've gone from the end of the road. One of those ways was marked w/ a blue diamond (as the guidebook instructed), and that route followed an old logging road that would've been hard to pass through w/ the trailer (I'm sure I could've done it in retrospect, but I didn't know how easy it would be to turn around once committed). So, although the blue trail markers ended at the parking location, that is the way I went on foot in search of the elusive Michigan state highpoint.

I did have the Mt. Arvon summit setup in my GPS as a waypoint, so I used my GPS to head into the woods and leave a trail I could follow to come back to where I parked. The satellite signal cut in and out with the heavy canopy of deciduous trees overhead though, so I wouldn't be able to rely solely on the GPS. About half a mile up the logging road my GPS clearly showed the Mt. Arvon summit off in a different direction than the log road proceeded, so I decided to start bushwacking off the path. I set another waypoint for where I left the path and headed into the woods (thinking this defining moment might make for a great scene in a thriller movie a la Deliverence). Oh well, nothing like that happens in Michigan, right? About 100 yards into the woods, I looked for a logical uphill area where the highpoint might be located to reconcile against the information my GPS was feeding me. Up to the left (away from where my GPS was leading me), I saw a glimmer of blue through the woods in a small clearing. Looking closer I realized I was looking at the Mt. Arvon summit, I had found it!! I later realized that I could've stayed on the logging road all the way to the summit and that in some ways my GPS had actually led me more astray than guided me. It goes to show that technology is an aid in arriving at a solution, but not a turnkey solution in and of itself.

The Mt. Arvon summit area looks more like a group campsite in the woods than the highest point of elevation for the entire state of Michigan, but nonetheless here I was. As I entered my offering in the summit register, I thought about Jack Longacre (the founder of the Highpointer's club) whom I had never had the chance to meet because he died two years ago from Cancer at the age of 64. His legacy lives on in the more than 2800 members of the Highpointer's club, and he is truly revered and respected for his character and leadership traits by the many members who did have a chance to meet him. Jack's dying request was to have his ashes be spread at each of the fifty state highpoints, and that is a request that is coming (or has already come) to complete fruition this Summer with the help of many of the club members who have "packed Jack in" with them on their journeys to the various summits. I looked around me at Mt. Arvon's summit site and pictured a small ceremony where Jack's ashes were being spread and thought what a cool way to be left. I am going to ask for something like that when my time is up. For the cold hard reality that it really doesn't matter how my body is treated after I die, I think it is fun to think about where I'd like to be "forever" when nothing else matters anymore, and how the people I leave behind get to remember me for where I am now and where I physically chose to be left. And it doesn't have to be one place, it could be many...

Heading back down the logging road I made it back to the dust-covered beast and behemoth and ventured back to civilization realizing that the MI state highpoint wasn't superlative in its natural beauty, but it had somehow created a memorable impact on me for the navigational challenge it represented and the way in which my mind wandered when present at the highpoint site, alone with nature and the image of being together with the entire highpointer community.

Back to L'anse, stop for a Subway sandwich (one of the many on my cross-country trip), and Nathan (the sandwich artist that created my dinner) commented on my Land Rover and Adventure Trailer, so I shared my tale of adventure with him. It turns out Nathan was shortly headed to Arizona (if I remember correctly) to become a national forest ranger. Cool. Nathan, you made me a great sandwich - thanks, but more importantly good luck on your next adventure in life - may it become everything that interested you in the first place.

I drove to Michigamme with a tremendous feeling of accomplishment for completing two state highpoints in a single day, and for finding a campsite with a shower and friendly neighbors before dark set in. The girl at the campground office was very helpful as well, just another example of people along the way that may not realize the little things they do or say can make your day...

Showered and camp setup, I was invited to our neighbor's campsite for a beer (after giving the requisite behemoth tour) and a beer turned into two or three. Ron, Roger, and Tracy were very gracious hosts to their new transient campsite neighbor (me). With them were four boys around 10-13 years old. These guys had the run of the campground and were constantly either riding their bikes around or exploring areas near or adjacent to the campground. I heard tales of one or two of their crazy misadventures including one in which Roger successfully impersonated one of the girls camping at a nearby campsite that these guys noticed... a very amusing tale in which a rendezvous was scheduled at which the real girl was obviously a no-show.

The four adults stayed up to the late hours and once again I had forged some deep connections with complete strangers in just a few hours of time of a chance connection. Throughout this trip of mine, it is becoming clear that a major theme is "restored faith in people".

Given that I was in Michigan on July 27th and I am posting this on August 12th, and I much further behind keeping my site current than I originally planned. But... I am having fun with it and have heard from many of you that you are enjoying the read so I will continue at a slower pace and make sure the story tells itself instead of over-encapsulating into nothing more than sound bites and pictures.

I am presently in Connecticut at the home of my wife's parents (John and Jeannette Mannuzza) and all is going well. What you haven't heard yet are the tales of my adventures in Canada, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachussetts, and Connecticut. So... there is much more to write and share, and I am just 60% of the way through my trip. Stay tuned and keep the e-mails coming...


Goin' down the road feeling good. Timm's Hill, Wisconin in my rearview mirror, and Mt. Arvon, Michigan is next.  Posted by Hello


kicking up dust on the way to Mt. Arvon. Posted by Hello


The road ends here. Who knows, I may need the GPS to find my way back. Posted by Hello


The summit register - secure from the weather and readily available to the many highpointers that happen to come through each year. This was one of many boy scout projects I've seen along my travels that have enriched my experience of being in the outdoors. Posted by Hello


Found it! An underwhelming spot to be at, but a challenge all its own to drive to and find through the woods. Posted by Hello


Mt. Arvon summit register entry Posted by Hello


Buggy bog near the Mt. Arvon "trailhead" Posted by Hello


One dusty rig! good thing it's got airtight seals to keep everything inside clean... Posted by Hello


a stretch of dirt road on the way back from Mt. Arvon to Skanee, MI Posted by Hello


Lake Superior view from L'anse, MI Posted by Hello


Here's the full crew of campsite banditos... Trevor, Ben, Eli, and Jordan. They had full run of the Michigamme campground and showed me the ropes. They even let me try out their electric scooter - thanks guys! Posted by Hello


Ben was hoping to see this one on the website as well. Ben, my kids know this as the "voodoo doll" you guys gave me... It's been keeping me company on my travels along with the hematite and magnetite samples Roger gave me from the upper peninsula area. Posted by Hello


Trevor doing "Adam Sandler" as his charade - I didn't see the movie, but everyone was hoping I'd put this picture on the website so here it is. :) Posted by Hello


Enjoying the campfire and charades Posted by Hello


Listening to Ron, ahh that's better. He can play full songs that we all know the words to. Posted by Hello


playing the gee-tar for Roger. Sorry Roger, my brain is lapsing on how to play with the night's festivities... Posted by Hello


My campsite at Michigamme campground Posted by Hello

Highpoint #5 - Timm's Hill, Wisconsin

From Iowa, I drove and drove and drove... That is after I stopped in a St. Paul, MN Starbucks for a couple of hours to update my blog. When night fell I was still not tired and decided to push for a camping spot somewhere near Timm's Hill which was my next highpoint destination in Wisconsin.

I crossed over the Wisconsin state line around 9pm and yelled out my customary "WooHoooo, Wisconsin!!" to no one in particular but to keep my progress proving ritual intact. Taylor's Falls is a border town that I came to and decided that dinner would not be a bad idea. After striking out at the first bar & grill because the grill had already been closed, I went next door to my second choice. I was greeted by the three local town drunks who immediately welcomed me as their long lost blood brother. The first and most outspoken jumped out of his barstool and stood a whopping 5'6" or so and blathered "You are the biggest motherf***r I've ever seen!", to which I replied "Have another." Somehow when my buddy Redbeard in Custer, SD said something amazingly similar it was endearing as opposed to this idiot who was just out to show his buddies how charming he was in the face of confronting a large stranger. I went to the opposite end of the bar from shorty and asked the tender what food they served. Between captivating moments sheer excitement while watching professional wrestling on the TV, the bartender was somehow able to find a bar menu and hand it to me without really saying a single word other than "Oh, YEAH!!! That's the shit baby!" - I am pretty sure he was reacting to the TV and not my innocent request to be served.

I was equally entertained by town drunk #3 who was sitting next to me at the bar. He was constantly asking the bartender to change the channel and trying to figure out why the tender was so enthralled by such trash as professional wrestling. I then had to listen to a lengthy debate about the worthiness (or lack thereof) of the entire sport of professional wrestling which included many assertions from town drunk #3 that he could do everything those guys on TV could do, and how non-athletic they were because they would be in the NFL if they had any real talent. When were my chicken fingers and fries going to be done???

After a thoroughly transactional meal and dining experience at Taylor's Falls, I hopped back into the beast and headed East further into the dark stretch of Route 8 in Wisconsin toward Timm's Hill. About 1.5 hours later when I was getting drowsy but still not too near my destination I decided it was better to be safe than sorry. Unfortunately, there were no campgrounds nearby. I was scouting around Ladysmith, WI for a "safe" squatters destination for the night. This was my first experience finding an unsanctioned camping area for the evening and I wanted to minimize the chance I'd be woken from a deep sleep and instructed by the local officials to move along to some other unsanctioned location at 3am in the morning. So... what qualifies as safe? I think the answer is different for an in-town location vs. a location that is in the boonies and away from populated areas. Being in-town, I thought of safe as somewhere that is somewhat public (so I didn't run into trespassing issues or the defensive territorial whims of a private landowner). I also thought of safe as an area that doesn't get too much traffic or visibility (to minimize being reported to the local officials). Finally, I thought of safe as an area that isn't clearly marked as off-limits to overnight parking or closed after a certain time in the evening. This night, I settled for two out of three by choosing a public park (public area and low traffic, but closed after sunset - which helped contribute to the low traffic criteria).

I pulled in to the park as quietly as possible and setup camp in stealth mode (no lights on, as quickly and quietly as possible). There were houses within eyesight and earsight, so I did have some risk of getting detected and reported, but as it turns out I was able to slumber peacefully and until I woke in the morning from natural causes rather than from external influences. As I emerged from my Adventure Trailer cocoon and stumbled down my ladder, I saw a college-aged girl about 15 yards away painting a park building that I had parked next to. She turned to me, took in what she was seeing, and masked disbelief and surprise and went right back to her Summer job of caretaking the park. Cool.... I could do without the interrogation anyway.

As I was selecting my daily music rotation and preparing to pull out of the parking lot to start the new day, I heard a boy's voice from right outside the passenger door of the beast: "Hey mister, do you have a phone I can use?". I looked up and saw a twelve year old boy awaiting my response. "Yeah, what do you need it for?" I answered. He told me he had been fishing and just caught a five pound bass. He was ready for his mom to pick him up because he didn't want to fish anymore and otherwise he'd have to wait 1.5 more hours for her to arrive at the pickup time they had worked out. I asked him for his phone number and his response was a four-digit number... Wow, this was a small town. I asked him for the first three numbers and was lucky that he knew them. Then I asked him for an area code, he replied w/ a five digit number.... Hmmm.... think.... I dialed the number with the first three digits of the five he supplied and failed the logic test he unwittingly gave me when the call didn't go through. Then it clicked... he actually gave me his zip code. I asked him again and he didn't know his area code. Hmmm.... think.... how do I get his area code with just the info I have with me? My GPS! Find nearest restaurant, and open the attributes and lo and behold there is the phone number complete w/ area code. I told him the area code and he agreed it sounded right. I dialed his mom again and tried repeatedly but kept getting a fast busy... "No dice kid, sorry, the call won't go through", and no way I was about to offer him a ride.... that would violate too many rules of how to interact with strangers.... He's probably made it home by now anyway.

The drive from Ladysmith to Timm’s Hill was short and when I arrived I was the lone car in the parking lot. As I used the park facilities another car pulled into the lot and I could hear the sound of two boys racing each other up the path to the Timm’s Hill highpoint. As I arrived I saw the two boys starting to come down the hill. They had clearly already conquered the highpoint, including the hike up a six story wooden lookout tower and this fact was confirmed when one of them proudly announced to me that he had been the first one to the top of the tower. “I went all the way up to the top” he said smugly. His grandmother said “ok boys, time to go” and their five minute visit was either an indicator of the short attention span she knew they had or a day full of activities planned. In either case I now had the Wisconsin state highpoint site all to myself and stepped back to admire the scene.

At the top of the quarter mile trail from the parking lot the well packed deciduous forest has been cleared around 50 yards in diameter to make room for two watchtowers. The apparent first to be constructed was the taller metal structure that reaches eight stories high (my guess). It has a small enclosed tower at the top that is reach by climbing a ladder. The second and more public-friendly is the wooden tower that stands about ten yards to the East.

I admired the metal structure noting primarily two things: 1. It was taller, and 2. If there was to be an “adventure” to be had at the Wisconsin highpoint site, clearly it was going to be climbing the ladder to the top of the taller structure. After all, there weren’t any signs saying not to (not that a sign would’ve made a big difference). Nor was there any safety-minded obstruction that was put in place to dissuade wild and crazy highpoint adventurers like myself from releasing a little adrenaline by scaling the ladder. So scale it I did.

There’s something quite fulfilling about seeing something a little dangerous, contemplating doing it, and then living in the moment throughout the experience of actually doing it. At the end, for me at least, the feeling of accomplishment is never quite as sweet as the original point of anticipation. But the feeling of living in the moment during the actual treachery of being on the edge is the part that becomes an indelible image in ones’ lifetime memory bank. Climbing an eight story metal ladder comes close to being on the edge, but because there was a circular support structure around the ladder it took some of the danger of climbing to the top out, and lowered the amount of adrenaline released similarly. Nonetheless I satisfied my thrillseeking need for the morning by doing it.

After scaling the first tower and making it back down without incident, I climbed the stairs to the wooden tower and found one of the more creative passages of graffiti I’ve seen before. “Hi, I’m Timm. Welcome to my hill.” For whatever reason this carving resonated with my sense of humor and I pictured the creative soul that came up with this hard at work inscribing his (or her) passage for all to enjoy.

I climbed down the 2nd tower and went back to the parking lot and saw a convertible MG parked near my rig and a man and woman in their early fifties sitting at a nearby picnic table. The license plate on the car said something like "My Debbie" or something similarly identifying, so I walked over and said "You must be Debbie" to which both laughed and started up a conversation. They were headed from Southeastern Wisconsin to Northwestern Wisconsin and I was crisscrossing their path by going from Southwest to Northeast. Ten or fifteen minutes off kilter, and this chance meeting would never have happened. But it did, and it resulted in an enjoyable discussion around my adventure and their loosely structured getaway. They recommended I checkout Picture rocks while passing through upper peninsula Michigan, but I already knew my schedule woudn't allow it... Maybe another time I thought and wished them well on their trip after handing them my calling card... Maybe they'll see this? If so, I hope your trip was fun.... Mine is ongoing.

On to Michigan's highpoint, Mt. Arvon near (but not too near) Skanee, MI...

Sunday, August 01, 2004


Sleeping in a parking lot in Ladysmith, Wisconsin Posted by Hello


The town of Ogema, just a few miles from Timm's Hill. Posted by Hello


Hey, a large wooden tower to climb! Posted by Hello


Oh cool, an even taller metal tower with a ladder. Posted by Hello


Do I dare climb it? Posted by Hello


View from the top of the tower Posted by Hello


Don't look down... Posted by Hello


Who said Timm's Hill wasn't a very exciting state highpoint? Posted by Hello


Graffiti with hospitality. It works for me... Posted by Hello

Highpoint #4 - Hawkeye Point, Iowa

... Owing to another late night in Custer, I had a late start on the morning of July 25th heading out of the Blackhills East toward Iowa. Based on some guidance from Justin I had planned to take Route 44 through the Badlands, then head to the North side of the interstate by taking Route 34 for the majority of the distance. This way I would minimize my travel on the main thoroughfares and opt for the road less traveled through small towns and via two lane roads.

The next few days would be big driving days, so I geared up mentally, musically, and gave the beast a little pep talk. It seems to have paid off, the beast was running very smoothly, and my mindset was quite content to focus on the sounds of the stereo and the scenery of the Badlands.

My National park pass got me by the typical Badlands entrance fee of $10, and then I found a nice 15 minute loop walk to take in some of the scenery and stretch my legs from the couple of hours it took to get there from the Blackhills.

After, the road took me North to I-94 which I got on for about 100 miles before getting to a good spot to shoot North to Route 34 (near Fort Thompson). Route 34 along here is pretty much open plains and farm land, but with more rolling hills than the flatness I saw in Eastern Montana. There were a couple of photo ops along the way, but otherwise an uneventful drive.

Later on in the day as I approached Madison I saw signs for Lake Harman state park and decided a campsite here would be perfect. I went into town, ordered Chinese takeout for dinner and then proceeded to the campsite. Sleep came easily and quickly...

The next morning I really wanted a shower, but there weren't any nearby. Time to inaugurate my portable shower system... (see picture below). My site was across the street from the lakeside beach and there was a changing room there I could use to take my shower in. So I heated up the water, and brought the cannister over to the changing room. Voila. Hot shower - I am a new man. At least for the next 24-36 hours until the next shower.

Time to cross into Iowa. It was about a 1.5 hr drive South and East into Iowa, and I kept on Route 9 in Iowa to (again) stay off of I-94. Another hour later and I had arrived at the farm of Donna and Merrill Sterler near Sibley, Iowa.

In 1972 the state was surveyed and Donna and Merrill discovered that their very own property lay claim to being the highest point in the state of Iowa. I'm not sure when, but sometime between then and now Iowa awarded the distinction of Hawkeye Point to this spot.

Following the advice in my state highpoint guide book, I called ahead the prior day to see if I could visit Hawkeye Point, and I spoke to Donna. "Certainly", she said, "Just take the second driveway to access the highpoint, and please make sure you sign the register". When I arrived I parked the beast and behemoth at the end of the second driveway and made my way over to the now defunct cattle feeding trough that marks the highpoint. The site looked familiar from some of the other pictures I had seen, but the corn was soo tall, the entire view out onto the fields was completely blocked. Good for a healthy corn year, but it would've been nice to see a little further.

As I made my way into the summit register up drove Merrill on his riding lawnmower. I was really hoping to meet the Sterlers so I was pleased he was out and about during the time of my visit. Merrill and I introduced ourselves and I told him what my Summer plans were and how my trip was going so far. That prompted Merrill to tell me about the record set in 1991 when 4-5 guys completed all state highpoints in the lower 48 during the month of July. When you first think about it the record may not seem all that impressive. However, if you know some of the challenges involved for difficulty, backcountry accessibility, and weather (e.g. Rainier, Gannett Peak, King's Peak, Hood, Whitney, Granite Peak all come to mind), and you added the consideration of traffic and distance and possible vehicle failures, you start to realize just how hard it would be to cover all 48 in a single month.

Merrill also went inside to get the past summit registers for me to see (as well as the record setting travel route from that 1991 party). After a little more chatting and giving Merrill a tour of my trailer, I was on my way out and onto the next destination, Timm's Hill, Wisconsin.


The Badlands of South Dakota along Route 44, taken the morning of July 25th, 2004 Posted by Hello


Field of sunflowers near Artesian, South Dakota en route to Iowa Posted by Hello


Dusk on July 25th driving on Route 34 near Madison, South Dakota Posted by Hello


Heating my shower water on the morning of July 26th. Posted by Hello


Hawkeye Point, at 1670' elevation it is Iowa's highest point. Posted by Hello


A typical page from the Iowa summit register. This one has entries from Indiana, Georgia, Michigan, Tennessee, Vermont, New Hampshire, South Dakota, and Texas. Posted by Hello


Summit #4 achieved - Haweye Point, Iowa at Noon on July 26th Posted by Hello

Highpoint #3 - Harney Peak, SD

Heading South from Route 85 in N. Dakota I entered into the West side of the state of South Dakota around 3pm on July 23rd. Aside from a half hour delay due to road construction and a group of behemoth gawkers at a mini-mart in Buffalo, S. Dakota, I was making good time on my way to the Sylvan Lake campground at the trailhead to Harney Peak.

After a gas and latte stop in Belle Fourche, I hopped on I-90 or a couple of exits and then proceeded South through Deadwood en route to Custer. I did not have reservations at the Sylvan Lake campground, but there was a site available so I set up camp, unhooked the beast from the behemoth and headed out to Custer around 7pm in search of dinner. Custer is a cool little town and I found a great pizza place (Pizzaworks, I think). Not ready to head back to the campsite I then set out to check out the local bar scene (see next blog - new friends in Custer)...

I rolled into the campsite around 3am and told myself not to sleep more four hours so I could get to everything I had planned for the next day. Right on schedule I awoke around 7am and was on the trail hiking toward Harney Peak at 7:30am. There was one oher hiker leaving from the Sylvan Lake trailhead at the same time and otherwise the parking lot was empty. I could tell no other hikers had already passed through because as I broke the trail for the morning I was very clearly announcing to the wildlife that humans were no starting their visiting hours. Four deer and a wild turkey made their way to more secluded areas away from the trail once hearing me and the other hiker may our way into the woods.

I decided to set a brisk hiking pace - partly to make up for the fact that I'd sat in a car for the better part of the past two days, and partly because I had an ambitious schedule planned for the day. My pace put me well in front of the other hiker and so I had the woods around me entirely to myself. When I hike my mind often goes into something I can only describe as "light scatter" mode meaning that I think of a lot of things but none too deeply or for too long. This was my frame of mind for the hike up to Harney Peak. 2.9 miles later and 1,500 feet higher I was the first person on the summit for the morning about one hour after I started from the trailhead.

The views from the top of Harney Peak can honestly be described as breathtaking. Harney Peak is situated in a very central location to the Blackhills and the granite rock formations that are prominent throughout this area poke out from the hills like a growing organism.

I explored the summit for about one hour; the first twenty minutes of which I was the only person present. In addition to the watchtower on the summit (which itself is pretty magnificent), there is a lot of open rockface that can be explored and doing so opens up different vantage points to the surrounding scenery. While exploring the summit I stumbled across a ball of brightly colored cloth ribbons around the size of a laundry bag. I am guessing they were a geocache site but not having seen one before I am only guessing.

I went back to teh Sylvan Lake parking lot via the Cathedral Spires path which added a couple more miles to the roundtrip, but kept the hike on new terrain for the entire duration. Once at the bottom I returned to the campsite, packed up (I could not get a second night at this campground), showered, and headed over to Central Lake to setup camp for the second night in the Blackhills.

Central Lake is located on the Needles Highway scenic road which is a 14 mile road that cuts through some of the most beautiful rock formations in the area. People were out and about on the scenic road, and the weather was fantastic. At several points along the Needles Highway there are rock tunnels that were cut to enable the road to go through. These tunnels are single-lane and some are so narrow that I saw one pickup truck pull in his side mirrors before attempting to go through.

Onto Mt. Rushmore. This place has changed in the past 19 years since I was last here... A lot of tourist features and facilities investments have been made to give the destination a larger scale for the typical visitor and greater access to get closer and see the faces from a much broader range of angles. I pilot-fished one of the guided tours and learned a few things about the history and making of the mountain. Do you know how many people died while the mountain as being formed?

Once satisfied I had seen the faces from all suitable direcions, I headed back to Custer for dinner and hanging out w/ my new friends.

Saturday, July 31, 2004


Sylvan Lake - by the Harney Peak trailhead Posted by Hello


Nice view from Harney Peak Posted by Hello


The first to summit of the morning... I had the entire peak to myself for 20 minutes Posted by Hello


View looking out from Harney Peak Posted by Hello


Harney Peak, South Dakota 7242 ft elev. and the highest peak East of the Rockies and West of the Pyranees. The watchtower was built in the 1930's by the CCC.  Posted by Hello


The Blackhills are filled with scenic granite rock formations like these needle peaks. Posted by Hello


My second time to Mt. Rushmore but first time seeing it (my first visit in 1985 was too foggy to see anything. Posted by Hello

New friends in Custer, South Dakota

When travelling solo across the country, it is inevitable that you run into new people. Eastern Montana and Western North Dakota, however aren't the types of places that lend themselves to chance encounters with other people... When travelling through these parts, it is so sparsely populated that drivers wave as they go by, mainly I think to fulfill the basic human need to socialize with something slightly more interactive than a wheat field.

So when I got to the BlackHills of South Dakota, I really needed to get out and partake in the community's social network (in this case the Gold Pan Saloon in Custer, SD). It so happened that I came into town at the right time. The weekend I was there (July24-25) was the Discovery of gold celebration weekend. Although I missed the daytime activities and bands because I was busy climbing, seeing Mt. Rushmore, and updating my blog, I did have two evenings of fun at the Gold Pan and was welcomed into a really tightknit circle of friends (most of whom are shown in the pictures below).

I am not going to try to recreate the experience of meeting and sharing time with these folks in detail because I would likely fail to do it justice. Suffice it to say though that I ran into these guys as a complete stranger and left town 48 hours later as one of the gang.

Amongst those things I'll cherish most about hanging out with this group is

  • the witty dialog shared w/ Luke including his opening line when first meeting me, "You must be the biggest sunuvabitch I ever met in my life."
  • the chats I had with Jennifer about parenting and relationships (she has a four year old son Michael whom unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to meet).
  • my first "Laurachileda" - being treated to Laura's infamous enchiledas that Redbeard raved about (and completely lived up to the billing)
  • being welcomed back home after hours as one of the gang.
  • Justin's travel advice on which routes to take East toward Iowa.
  • And of course the deep dialog about my life trip this Summer represents and how Dan is considering similar adventures in his own life.

As I left I knew I'd never forget meeting these people and remembering the fun times we shared. And I was told more than once that I was welcome back anytime no matter whether it was next week or twenty years from now. I could tell the words spoken were sincere, and I left with a very special place in my heart for the town of Custer and my new friends there.



Laura and Vessalina (Vessy did I spell it right?) Posted by Hello


The three amigos (Red Beard aka Luke, Dan, and me) Posted by Hello


If you haven't hadone of Laura's enchiledas then you haven't experienced life.... They are even better when eaten from tupperware using Michael's (4 yr old) spork. Posted by Hello


Justin and Dan using sign language Posted by Hello


Laura and Red Beard hanging out Posted by Hello


Ron and Jennifer in the kitchen Posted by Hello